Deep Within A Terrorist Controlled Region, We Followed Clues Left Thousands Of years Before, To Search For A legendary Lost City Constructed By A Race Of Blond Giants...

We left for Peru from Phoenix mid-July. Our quest was to enter the Tocache Valley to see the several unusually inscribed stones found throughout the area. We were warned this was a hostile remote part of Peru very few ever venture into. Up until only a year ago it had been held by drug traffickers and terrorists. We were told no white person had ever entered and returned alive during that time. Now, it was anyone's guess what might happen.

We had contacted a trusted friend who had worked for the government during the preceding 10 years. His job with the Peruvian government was to assist the local farmers with food and medical supplies. During his tenure he also had made friends within the ranks of those the government wanted eliminated. After all, these terrorists were actually the poor farmers who lived there. Juglar had become a trusted friend, someone respected and admired. Now, he had negotiated our entrance to their domain. Our lives were in his hands.

The Journey Begins

The flight from Lima to Tarapoto lasted only 90 minutes. Once on the ground our task would be to find someone with a small plane to transport us to Tocache. Traveling overland would take a week. It was obvious after an hour of asking that there were very few pilots and fewer small aircraft. Finally we were introduced to an 18 year old who offered his services. He had recently bought a new Cessna and would be happy to have his pilot fly us. It would only cost us $500... No negotiations reduced the price - cash only. We left Tarapoto late afternoon as billowy clouds rose on the horizon above the mountains.

An hour into the flight we encountered heavy winds and rain. Our pilot radioed ahead, informing us there was no way we could continue. We were forced to land overnight at the small town of Juan Hui.

The next day we continued to Tocache and met up with our ground support crew. A hand full of farmers assembled to manage the horses and supplies we would use during the journey. Once everything was assembled and loaded onto trucks we headed down an old, yet well used road. This had been the main route used by the Narco's before the government drug war. The US had again scored a victory abroad according to those who survived.

Within 3 hours we had arrived to Bethlehem, a small group of shacks positioned at the trail head. Baggage was unloaded, mules packed and supplies readied. With few words spoken, Kathy and I headed down the trail. Behind us we could hear the Spanish swear words as the farmers persuaded the mules to start an new job. The afternoon was already started and we needed to make good time to arrive to Monte Cristo before dark. Kathy and I looked at each other as we walked a damp winding trail through the rainforest. It was both an look of excitement and one of concern. What had we gotten ourselves into....

July 21, 2000

We arrive to Monte Cristo at 4:07p.m. After a 2 hour walk, about 4 miles. As we entered the clearing of the community everyone came out of their crude homes, curious at our arrival. We have now seen 2 of the large boulders covered with petroglyphs. We're very tired and and because of the heat and humidity we're sweating alot! At the stone above the village Jerry talked to the villagers who gathered around.

We told them we were happy to meet them and were very interested in there culture. They offered for us to stay in their school house over night. We walked over to the school house followed by our mules and helpers, whom these villagers knew. In a clearing behind the school the children and some adults were playing volleyball. As tired as we were Kathy could not resist and played a few games with them. That was a lot of fun. We set up our Hennessy Hammocks and started boiling water for our meal and some much needed coffee.

During the evening we heard the men of the village talking to our guides. The were speaking of "RatasÓ (Rats - commonly used to describe dishonest people). Our guides reassured them we were honest people. Convinced, they wanted to visit with us. We were happy to have the opportunity for the conversation. By this time it was dark, they told us if we were looking for ancient citadels they know where many are! We are told of 3 cities, 2 day's away - 12 hours walking. They said there are caves full of gold 30 minutes away ... We are so excited!

July 22, 2000

Joining us on our journey was Julian (left)& Cecelio (right). They have been to all the citadels discussed the night before. We decided to rent 2 horses for us to ride during part of the journey. We could each trade off for a rest. The terrain was very treacherous and at times leading the horse was the only safe approach. As for the trail, it turns into a tunnel of foliage with vines and branches of Cats Claw scraping across the sides of your body. Infection sets in quickly in this environment. The best we could do is lean forward and hold on to the horses mane. We were entering the mid jungle. This is the most dense. During the moments we could afford the luxury of stopping for a look we see beauty beyond compare with strong mystical/ spiritual feelings present. Oh yes, the Apus of the mountains! Bad attitudes beware!

Finally as night begins to blanket us we find the shelter the guides have been searching for. We dub this site the Holiday Inn. All we have are slender posts lashed together to form a crude dwelling. A thatch roof and dirt floor... and the threat of rain. There are no walls.

We quickly assemble camp, string up the Hennessy Hammocks and enjoy dinner. Thank God for freeze dried food.

The area is a cleared place in the deep jungle. Trees (saplings mostly) have been cut above the ground and left to dry. We're told the ground cover will be burned away later for crops. We're warned to be cautious of poisonous insects and snakes populating the area. They are always present at night. For our protection, a smoky campfire has been placed within the area we're sleeping. We're told this should also ward away any wild animals that might come near to investigate.

An hour after setting up the Hennessy Hammocks it started to rain. Jumping out to rearrange the rain fly was a difficult experience. Cold rain pelted me as I stood in my underwear. Sharp stubs and thorns were difficult to negotiate as my feet slid in the dark muddy earth. Exhausted, I return to my hammock and quickly fall asleep. I didn't know then that I had accidentally disturbed Kathy's rain fly The rain flowed towards her hammock, soaking her during the night.

July 23, 2000 6:00 am

It rained most of the night. I awoke to a wet sleeping bag. I ate a power bar for breakfast and am still wearing the same clothes...

After camping in a crude makeshift hut in the middle of a mosquito infested cleared area, we continue on into the deep jungle. We stopped briefly to examine a Blue Orchid and later a Sangi De Grotto Tree. The thick red sap has amazing healing properties. We're told by our guides a few drops in milk cures ulcer's. Jerry uses some on the Cat's Claw wounds he had gotten yesterday. Red and angry looking, we hope it helps. We can't afford blood poisoning here.

It bothers me that I'm still wearing the same clothes. I got really soiled yesterday. The dirt and jungle juices have coated me. The rainforest is so wet and we never get completely dry. It rained heavy last night and the trail is like soup. Plenty of deep water filled holes to fall into.

8:28 am

We've stopped. The guides have gone ahead to scout which path is best for us and the mules. We just have to wait here for the guides to return and direct us. We are at a cross roads ... 5000 ft.

8:35 am

We continued onward, took the right hand path. The jungle is very dense and wet. It rains off and on, but inside the jungle it is always dripping. We're soaked ... Riding the horse's off and on. The paths are cut to about 4' in height, so when you're sitting on a horse there are occasionally branches of cats claw vines and leaves slicing across our bodies. As we continued we chewed coca leaves with a bite of lime to get more oxygen to continue the climb. It's only early morning and already we're exhausted.

12:30 pm

We stop for lunch at a river crossing. There were bees everywhere! The pollen on our clothes is attracting them. Jerry had a hard time with this. It was hard to eat the tuna and crackers we had for lunch. They were crawling all over us. With every bite you had to make sure there wasn't a bee on it!!

After lunch we crossed a raging mountain river on a 30 foot by 4Ó log! Our guides tell us the next area we're going into is a very mystical place. If your attitude is not balanced and your intentions pure, things can happen.... it can be dangerous. We start climbing up towards the mountain top. It's very steep and slippery and the horses are having trouble with us riding them. We have to do this walking ourselves.

4 pm

8 hours since we started this morning. We are traveling a high pathway 1800' above the river - very difficult and dangerous. At 7400' an amazing place where clouds are born. The air has become moist and cold. Near the mountain top it is extremely windy. We have been told not to ride the horses. It's too difficult and dangerous for riding. Land slides in front of us plummet to the river far below. We have to carefully and quickly cross this dangerous area. The horses went first. They are much heavier and made it. We followed, aware that at any minute the loose rain soaked earth could again give way. The view is incredible here. I wonder how many from our world have ever seen such sights. Very few, I am sure.

6:30 pm

It's dark and we are tired and soaked. We have been hiking for 12 hours on the most difficult terrain we have ever encountered. Altitude 8100' - we finely reach Mamac. A small sod building where the family who owns the large ranch lives. This is so primitive, yet functional. It's completely hand made from the local resources. This building has been built on the foot hills of one of the ancient cities we are looking for. We haven't eaten since lunch and our energy was low. The beef stew is not filling but tasty after a 12 hour hike. The farmer/rancher family had not expected to have visitors. They are kind and allowed us to stay in one of their storage rooms. The ceiling is a grass woven roof that houses their chickens. The room is very small and the smell of corn mold and dust is heavy. If this is for only one night I think I can handle it. We are so tired we don't care much.

July 24, 2000 / 6:00 am

Rain dripping from the roof (I hope it was rain) as the rooster woke us. We are to continue our trek to the site the guides informed us about. We waited till 11:30 a.m. to start out because it was to be only 2 hours - A relief! We're told to only bring water and food. Nothing else will be needed. We'll only be away until just before sundown. As we drink coffee and have breakfast we notice the bear skins draped over the poles directly in from of the sod house. Overhead are the skins of two large monkeys alongside several sheep hides. We have to be careful not to catch these on fire. The man of the ranch sits with us and through the translator we're told how he had only last week killed the bear. It had attacked his livestock (cows are raised here as well as sheep). The bear had been accompanied by another bear and had run off once shots were fired. We would have to be on the look out for it. With only a rusty old rifle in hand we leave the shelter and head down the mountain trail towards the ancient city we're told is nearby.

Again we go down steep inclines and back up mountain sides. There was a light mist as clouds floated beneath us as we made our way. We thought the sky would clear, instead it started raining harder. The wind picked up. We became quickly soaked and got colder. Our finger tips were turning numb. We continued on horseback. Our jeans were completely soaked due to the leaves brushing across them. Our rain ponchos were ahead on the burros's. Thirty minutes later we caught up with them and quickly put them on. It was too little too late. Unfortunately, we were soaked. There was nothing to protect our legs or boots.

The rain inside the jungle is twice that in the clear areas. The temperature dropped to 60 degrees. Each gust of wind blew the foliage causing more waster to fall upon us. It seemed colder because of the constant wind. The blankets on the spanish style saddles (for cushioning) was quickly soaked. Aching from cold and sore muscles, we continued. On the path we crossed several small streams and another wide, raging river. The river was most interesting because of the heavy mineralization. The boulders and smaller rocks were orange - rust colored. Chunks of pure iron - large boulders the size of compact cars were everywhere! Other stones revealed Quartz with gold flakes. This was an incredibly beautiful area.

We stopped for a few minutes to examine the location. We had never seen anything like this. After a few minutes we are again climbing up the side of yet another steep mountain. We have learned that for ever time we go down we must soon go steeply back up. This would be difficult if dry, but because of the heavy rain it is extremely hard and dangerous.

1:30 pm

The weather has slowed us down considerably. We are still 2 hours or more from the site we have now named Site 1. Our guides tell us this is extremely rare for this time of year, to have an "all dayÓ rain. Every place we've gone, the guides and people tell us the weather is acting strangely.

2:30 pm

We're told our destination is still over an hour away, given our slow progress. Cold and tired, we continue. Crossing one stream I found a large piece of silver. Not ore, but pure silver the size of a flattened orange. Crusted on it was a brittle black stone. Different from slate and seeming very hard. I placed it so to find it on my way back. Another stone found by Coco (one of our guides) was more Quartz with spider veins of gold. Really pretty.

3:00 pm

We arrive to a place by the trail where the thick foliage had been cleared. The path goes at a 70 degree angle upward. Still raining heavily, the flattened weeds and brush combined with slick black soil make this a formidable challenge. We climbed 1000' to a clearing. The area had all the trees chopped down to prepare for farming. This entire area is covered with the remains of slippery (sometimes thorny) tree trunks and branches. Stubs like spikes protrude from the ground about 2' high. With every attempted step you are afraid, wondering which part of your body will be pierced and how badly you'll be hurt should you fall or slip. To complicate matters, heavy roots, vines and reemerging undergrowth tangle our feet. Now, this and the cold heavy rain further slow our progress.

After having passed through this, we reenter the jungle. This is more dense than before. We are now at 9,570 feet. Ahead we hear the sound of machetes - our guides are clearing a path. We cautiously progress in the direction of the sounds ahead. Every step is critical and must be planned.

Suddenly Jerry sees a glint in the mud. Curious, he digs and removes a stone weighing about 10-15 lbs Given the price of gold this stone is worth perhaps $60,000. We had already decided to not remove any items from here, but this is only a gold laden (mostly gold)stone. Placed beside the trail, we continue our climb upward. We'll grab it on the way back. The sound of rain on the canopy is sometime deafening. A clear warning to those beneath to take cover. Unfortunately, there is none....

We enter another clearing. At the other side and near the jungle we find our first sign of an ancient world. A multi room house stands nearly complete - no roof, but many rooms. Maybe three windows allowed the occupants to look from one room to the next. This is not Inca. The stones are not shaped like those seen in Cusco or Machu Picchu. Instead, they are stacked. Medium trees exit the center of the rooms and foliage surrounds this house. Heavier rain. Photo's are not possible. The camera would be soaked and ruined. We continue our climb through even heavier foliage At this time we realize we are climbing across the top of the ancient buried city!

3:30 pm

We enter another clearing where there stands a remarkably well made shelter. Milled lumber for the walls, a tin roof. The building is foreign looking, having boards held in place with galvanized nails. Someone went to alot of trouble to make this. Corn was stored inside (we could see it through the cracks in the walls). Our guides (Coco, Marcello and Julian) go ahead. We're told there is no path and they want to frighten off the Puma's, bears and possibly snakes.

We cross a broad expanse of downed trees, undergrowth, vines and branches. Entering the jungle again, we find it almost impassable. There is a wall of foliage so thick that as you pass through, it completely closes behind you. The dense jungle is so tall you can't see the person ahead or behind. Navigation can only be accomplished by listening. This isn't easy when heavy rain is the only other sound.

4:00 pm

We arrive to the city. This is a large complex of buildings with huge trees growing out of a few of the buildings. Some of the ruins still have corn under light foliage! We didn't see roofs, but didn't expect to. The place is vast. Well placed stones make streets and further in we find the first of what we are told are plazas and placed stone court yards. The rain is still heavy. There's no way we can take photos. Our camera isn't working because of the moisture. I'm concerned it might be ruined. Further examination reveals many more large and small buildings.

Juglar has become very concerned. He says we must leave at once. Even though the low clouds have obscured the area, we've noticed the light diminishing. Caught up with excitement we forgot sunset is only 2 hours away. We're in big trouble!!!

Falling, racing - we go back down the path. I can't believe the rain hasn't let up. At least moving creates body heat - enough to feel warm under our plastic rain ponchos. We fell several times and became muddy - I hated this. Our mud caked pants and hands held the cold closely. Finally, after crossing the treacherous clearings we mostly fall down the 1000' vertical expanse to the path below.

Our bodies trembling and aching, we travel as quickly as our endurance allows. And that's not much right now! Our water and horses behind us, we power march through dense, dimly lit under growth. It's getting colder! Wind blows heavy drops of water from the branches overhead. It's getting darker. Juglar and Coco are becoming very concerned - as are we. They know we might meet a bear or puma on the path. Snakes would be completely invisible now. The path is too dark to make out details. We cannot even see the path within minutes of arriving to it.

6 pm

We are still 3 or 4 hours away from our base camp "MamacÓ. It is now completely dark - we can't see the path. We only have a Bic lighter to ocassionally light our way. After a few attempts in the wind we each are burned by the flame. The lighter became so hot we were afraid to keep using it. We slowly "felt" our way. All along the way up we had to side step large pools of water and mud. At times, small streams gush down the pathway making it slick. Now we can't even see the rain. Thousands of feet below the river roars. Heavy clouds of fog rise from the valley floor like giant ghosts moving through the jungle.

Moving slowly and deeply worried, we go one step at a time up and down the rugged narrow path on the side of the mountain. On our right side, a thick jungle encrusted mountain side. To our left, a 2000 foot vertical drop off at times with no foliage to brake a fall. We are all completely exhausted. I have fallen several times and twisted my back. The injury from the horse falling over me a few days ago is hurting so badly I can barely move. A few steps and I must stop. I can't even stand upright because of the pain. This is awful to be so cold, wet and in pain and still have to continue. No matter, we cannot stop. Kathy is amazing. She, too is exhausted and cold - yet she has enough strength to help me.

(That's me, super explorer !! : )) ). haha... Kathy

Completely dark, we decide to stop. We hear someone approaching and call out. One of the guides with the supplies has finally caught up with us. After a brief conversation and a badly needed drink of water, I am put on the horse and told to lay flat with my head against the horse's neck. The guide take's the reins and the horse jerks forward. I haven't any idea how long this will take, or how I can hold on. The saddle front is pushing into my abdomen and my fingers are intertwined around the horses neck. Ever move pushes the saddle hard into my sternum. It's like being hit over and over in the stomach with a fist. It's so dark I can't even see the ground beneath, and I'm not that high above it! First we go level, then steeply trot down the mountain side. The horse slips on the muddy rocks, then jolting, it recover's. Again it jerks forward and backwards. I'm thrown side to side as we progress. We began to slide sideways, then begin to climb. This is easier than heading down.

The horse jumps, climbs and lurches forward. My eyes closed, I hold on for my life and worry if Kathy is all right. I can only trust Juglar and Coco will take care for her safety. Forty more minutes and the horse stops. Thank God... The pain from the jolting to my abdomen is becoming unbearable.

I'm told by Julian (guide) I'm out of the jungle and can sit up now. Looking overhead I can see stars against a midnight blue sky. Columns of mist like clouds rapidly across my view.

Everything hurts as I sit up. I breath deeply, stretch and we continue. Only 10 more minutes, I'm told. Julian was right. We were in a clearing. I relax a bit, trying to stretch my back. Sitting straight up I arch my back and stretch my neck. Everything hurts and I'm so cold my extremities hurt. The horse now trots at a faster pace, as anxious as me for this trip to be finished. Without warning a 4' thick tree branch hits me in the center of my throat. Surprised, I fall backwards. The steep back of the saddle forcefully hits the small of my back. My head is resting on the horses tail . My feet dig into the sides of the horses neck. This is all that holds me on, preventing me from falling under the horse - or worse. It's totally dark - I can't see my hand before me. Catching my breath, my hands reach for the horses mane. Then I carefully feel my neck. A small abrasion and some swelling, but nothing serious seems to be wrong. I reluctantly resume my previous position.

The horses heart is beating fast in my right ear as we continue. I know somewhere behind me Kathy is suffering that wet, slippery and incredibly steep ascent. I'm so worried for her, will she be Ok? My mind races with the thought of the bear and puma, plus the risks of the snakes hanging from the jungle growth or swimming across dark pools of water in the path.

Once I arrive, I start the kerosene stove to prepare hot water for coffee. In the dim glow, I silently wait. Completely wet, cold and too tired to move to correct this. A half hour, then 45 minutes pass. I've had to re light the fire several times because of the wind. Shadows cast by swaying lanterns race left and right as if in some bizarre dance. Suddenly I hear a shout, then another. Exhausted - more so then I - Kathy and the others walk into the small circle of light. Panting, she says she's relieved to see me. She was worried I might have fallen or gotten hurt. Smiling, she gives me a huge hug! Then a laugh - " Quite a walk, huh HoneyÓ! The hammocks slept us well. I told her about my experiences the next morning. We had all returned to Mamac by 10 pm.

July 25, 2000

I have never been so sore. My legs, back and throat hurt from last nights events. We awaken to clear skies and sunshine. Exiting my hammock I hear a conversation outside. Plans have been made to climb (arg!) the mountain behind us. Today we head for Site 3, where we are told we'll find another large city. Curious and tired we follow after eating breakfast.

The climb is treacherous almost vertical. In places we climb with our hands and feet as we lay flat against the mountain side. An hour passes we've only gone up a few hundred feet. Our lack of trail means we have to climb through overgrowth of cats claw and other thorny brushes.

After 2 or 3 hours we arrive to a large rock wall. The stone is buried in the under brush and dirt, but the part we can see is approximately 8 - 9 feet tall. To the left of this wall and towards the center (in the middle of the wall) we find some obviously placed stones covering an opening. After removing a few stones we are surprised to see a skull and scattered bones. We've found a burial site. The hole is about 2 feet wide and tall, resembling somewhat of an arch. After a few pictures we replaced the stones and continued our investigation. Everywhere we look we find undisturbed tombs. We were told this was not usual. Burial site had all been robbed by now, according to popular thought.

These burial sites are very different than any we've seen. They're constructed in symbolic looking groupings, low stone walled circular areas on the ground. The stones each placed with care and precision. Covering each burial site earth and stones were again neatly positioned. Only one seems to have been opened. Looking inside we see it is empty - only the hole remains.

This area is vast. The jungle is covering most of what's here, but it's clear as we climb upward these circular terraces must have been a cemetery. After climbing another 40 minutes we find large walls that disappear into the jungle as they follow around the side of the mountain. Climbing higher we discover a large flat area. Because of the foliage I cannot estimate the area, except to say it look's very broad and long. Evidence of what might have been here are nearby. There are many walls rising from the vines and foliage From here we wander further, but the jungle's thick foliage again blocks our view. Marcello, the owner of the property tells us to look closely. Barely visible, a placed stone path (like a roadway) continues into the foliage and on up the mountain. One and a half days journey is a huge city as large as Tocache, he says. We can't continue - unprepared with the equipment needed or the time to return to base camp before night fall! We didn't want to repeat the night time walk in the jungle.!!!! : ~ ))babe!

We sent a message via a runner to the commander of the local army base in charge of the region. A helicopter is scheduled to arrive tomorrow afternoon. While we were exploring this site, Coco had again made his way to site 1. Because it was such a clear day - lots of sun - Coco took my camera to capture any pictures he felt would be good. Once we returned to the mud house we ate and rested.

Sore and exhausted, we spoke with Marcello about Site 2 , which is one day away from Site 1. He told us this was in the mountains, not the jungle. No growth was there at all. The area was flat, stone and very high - in the clouds at times. The roofs are still in place and inside one of the large houses there could still be found deer antlers hanging on the wall. He said that his father would hang his hat on the antlers when they would seek shelter from the rain. The doorways are taller than Jerry and it has a huge court yard with laid flagstone and roads of the same. Sometimes he and his father would stay there overnight when they would go out looking for stray cattle and return home the next day. The place was large with many buildings, all abandoned centuries ago by the tall blond giants who had lived there. No one of the mountain communities really knew for sure who these people were or where they had gone. The city was a place in perfect condition, complete with murals and statues or fresco's upon stone walls. They believed the place was inhabited with spirits who were watching over it, waiting for the original inhabitants to return. Why else would it stay in such perfect condition? There was even corn in stored within the buildings. To us, it was the discovery of a lifetime and a place of intense mystery.

Coco returned at sundown. He was extremely fast and very strong by our standards. He told us how he had quickly returned to the area climbed the mountain opposite Site 1, and with binoculars had identified his best approach. He then went back down the first mountain and up the other. Within an hour he was at the site. Because the foliage was so dense, it was hard to see the scope of the site. He found the area we had been to and continued further in. The further he went the more difficult it became. He was climbing old walls and pushing through vines. Finally he returned. He didn't want to be caught in the dark again. He know he wouldn't be able to travel quickly. Pulling off his boot, his heel was completely raw! A blister had covered the entire back of his foot, skin was hanging and it looked terrible, angry and inflamed. Kathy brought the medical kit. We instructed Coco to lie down and relax as best as possible. I removed the loose flesh with our surgical scissors and washed the wound. Kathy pulled out antibiotics and bandages. I dressed his wound. Although in pain, Coco kept smiling. His humor effervescent as ever.

6 pm

The radio we've been listening to all afternoon is a 1960's 5 transistor Admiral special. The batteries are about dead and the signal fades in and out without warning. This is the highest technology available here. The only reliable communication requires you to either send someone or to go there yourself, wherever "thereÓ is. No phones or televisions. No computers, fax machines or PDA's. This is no different than 1800 AD. We are travelers out of this era.

We've been listening most of the day and still no announcement from the commander of the army base regarding our helicopter rescue. Our state of affairs keeps us from doing any more. Juglar is injured with a twisted and swollen knee. Coco has the first signs of blood poisoning and my back, neck and leg hurts constantly. It is impossible for me to walk more than a few dozen feet before I have to stop. Concerned, we held a meeting. Perhaps the message sent hadn't arrived. We could only presume it would be delivered.

Finally, over coffee we decide to ask Julian to return to Tocache the next morning. Asking him wasn't easy for me. The trip to Mamac had taken us 3 days to complete. Three 12 hour days of the most intense terrain imaginable. How would he react? I knew how I would feel ...

Julian agreed, smiling. I carefully wrote a message indicating our situation and GPS coordinates, Frank translated it. I also included a short message for the commander to telephone to Edith of our Lima office, so she wouldn't worry. Enclosed within a large plastic bag along with our business card, we placed our hope of rescue in Julian's hands.

11 pm

Another cup of coffee. Juglar is so worried. His handsome face scored with lines from anxiety. His eyes narrow and tired. We all hoped to be leaving soon. I hardly remember drifting off to sleep.

July 26, 2000

We awoke to the sound of the Kerosene burner being ignited outside of our musty dark, mud room. The air was cold and damp as Kathy & I quickly dressed. We had not been able to wash or clean up in any way except using the sanitary wipes we had brought along. Our hair was filled with dirt and jungle refuse.

Opening the heavy wooden door reveled the splendor of the Andes at sunrise. Stripes of low hanging mist collect into low solid cloud streamers moving southward, flowing down the valley. Sunlight illuminated the edges and tips of these clouds, and they seem to glow with gold edges. An Andean condor silently glides toward the rising sun. The hot coffee combined with all the beauty outside our room tastes delicious with the cold air. Kathy prepared breakfast as I fixed her a hot cup of coffee.

Juglar, Coco, and Frank stumble out of their room to join us. We all have the same thought, though no one speaks. Will we hear the announcement on the Tocache Radio today? Messages are announced between 4 - 6 pm every day. This is the only modern form of communication the mountain community have between each other. Julian had left before sunrise to return to Tocache. We didn't expect any word until tomorrow. After all, how could he be expected to arrive in one day?

Noon

We've been relaxing all morning. A strange thing really, considering we hadn't stopped walking, climbing and exhausting ourselves for what seems like such a long time. It was pleasant to have some time to take in the expansive beauty surrounding us.

The radio crackles to life and a brief single distant station is tuned in. Weak and fading out at times, we hear a man who seems to always be shouting, heavy reverb distorting further, the voice announcements are made on the hour beginning at noon. I never realized how important a radio could be. We come from a world of absolute worldwide communication, yet here you can only send messages by courier and receive them over a weak am Radio station. Poised near the radio, we patiently waited listening for any important information this one wild and obnoxious announcer might offer. Gazing at a distant mountain top becoming visible again as a cloud moved past, I wondered what these people "reallyÓ knew of the world beyond these mountains. I wondered where Julian was. Kathy, always positive, reassured each of us. I haven't seen her shaken or weak once. I am so lucky. Her strength has already carried me several times.

5 pm

The final announcements were made. We were not mentioned... We can only hope to hear our announcement tomorrow.

July 27th

Once again the radio crackles to life. Our moral is a bit low as we try to pass our time patiently. Coco's foot is badly inflamed. We've administered a topical ointment and instructed him to keep it washed off. He cannot wear his boots. Juglar's knee is still badly swollen and wrapped in our ace bandage. My back is aching all the time. It's painful to walk. To complicate matters, I can't turn my head very far without it hurting. I may have fractured something or badly sprained those muscles.

During the mid-afternoon broadcast we finally heard our names mentioned. Juglar has finally smiled again. Relieved, he tells us the message was short and to the point. The helicopter would rescue us by 7 am the following morning. We were to be ready. Plans for packing started immediately. All that is left now are our sleeping bags and hammocks. The food and utensils were packed after supper.

The family we've been imposing on is excited for us. We were invited to eat with them this evening. The meal consisted of beans, rice, Cuie (guinea pig) and Bear meat. Plantains were substituted for bread. Warm milk was served as well. For desert we offered each of them and their children a packet of our Swiss Miss Coco mix. Instructing the lady of the cottage to bring the milk to a near boil, we prepared each of the some hot chocolate. It was the first (and probably last) time they ever experienced this. Eyes rolled as they savored the rich drink.

July 28th

We awoke at 6 am had a quick breakfast and finished packing. By 7 am we heard the shouts of Juglar and the others. The helicopter was spotted flying up the valley.

Within minutes it was circling our area. Out the sides and back we clearly saw machine guns and their operators. They we taking no chances. Later we heard they wondered if we had been taken hostage and used to convince the Air Force to come. This was not an unlikely possibility. They were relieved to find only us there.

We managed to move each of our expedition bags to a flat area near the house. The men jumped from the helicopter before it had touched down and started moving our things into position. It all happened so fast we never had a chance to photograph the event. It would have been quite a memory to revisit.

Once we were all on board the helicopter rose above the now familiar terrain. In the distance we clearly saw the mountain top where we had located the mysterious lost city, no longer lost. Within 40 minutes we had completed a journey that had taken such time and effort to travel by foot. The lush green landscape didn't look so difficult from our new perspective. Beneath us were the raging rivers and vertical climbs we labored over. From the air it looked peaceful and quiet. We knew better.

By midnight we had returned to Lima. The culture shock was emphasized by the riots over Fuji Mori, Peru's President. Our taxi driver delivered us to the Villa Molina where we enjoyed our first good shower in over a week.

 

Lying in bed, Kathy and I again looked at each other.

"We made it back..." I said.

"Yea, and what an adventure! I can't believe all we've been through."

Within moments we were both sound asleep....

 

We did return a week later to the Tocache valley with a group expedition. Marshall Media London (producer Sally Angel) was the production company, request us to enter and capture the events on digital tape for a planned special.hired by The Discovery Channel. But that's another story... Some day the story will be told....let's just say for now... it didn't go well.....

The mysterious city is still waiting for someone to explore completely. But be advised. This area is once again dangerous because of continuing actions against the drug cartel. Opium is now being produced in the Tocache region. Coca has always been produced there.

About Hennessy Hammocks: No, we didn't get them for free or get paid to advertise them. They are a great product and we just wanted to let the world know.

Best Wishes Everyone... Jerry & Kathy Wills

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